Roisin Dubh

WITH a name such as Roisin Dubh ("black rose" in Gaelic), Guinness transfers on the window, Irish ephemera all over the walls and live Irish music on Thursday nights, you could be forgiven for expecting this tiny Sydney Road bar to be a little more, well, Irish.

But far from being a shamrock-infested cliche like some chain pubs around town, Roisin Dubh seems content to operate more with an Irish state of mind than way of being.

Alcohol, food and music come from many points around the globe including Ireland so the Irishness of the place comes across as theme rather than theme park.

The main bar, slotted into a narrow shopfront, has wooden floors, high ceilings, exposed-brick walls and a bartop made from a great slab of rough-hewn timber.

Seating is sparse — a couple of stools pulled up to a wine barrel, two rather austere, straight-backed pew-like seats, some ottomans and a Chesterfield-style couch. Out the back is a cute beer garden, complete with fairy lights and plants.

None of it screams "Comfort!" but spend a little time here and the good attitude, kind lighting and interesting indie-leaning music all work their charms.

There's a little Irishness happening with the booze list. There's Guinness, of course ($4.60 a pot), and Kilkenny in a can ($6.50) by way of beer, but the rest of the list jumps around a bit, mixing the usual suspects with some more designer stuff, such as Moo Brew ($11). The workmanlike wine list is strictly new world, tiny and quite cheap and there is a list of 22 whiskies that again has a few Irish labels (Jameson Gold Reserve, $15) but leans more towards the commercial and obvious than the boutique.

There are some tasty snacks to be had that defy geographical labelling. Salt and pepper squid ($12.50) is tender and deep-fried and good for washing down with beer, and there are spicy meatballs, jamon and chorizo for those who like to mix a little Spanish into their Irish bar experience.

Roisin Dubh can seem a little confusing — or confused — at first but it pulls together all its disparate elements in an appealing, slightly eccentric way. It's hospitable, good-humoured and loves whisky and, if you believe the stereotyping, you can't get much more Irish than that.

Cheers A modest, charming, pretension-free attitude.

Jeers A little more comfort in the seating department wouldn't go astray.