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Choose your outside aspect wisely. Look one way and Toorak station stares bleakly back. Look the other and you're in a pretty pocket of Paris. Inside, the small space is stuffed with character (antiques, cut flowers, pressed metal ceiling), with French food to match. Chou farci is a standout - vibrant cabbage leaves crammed with slow-braised duck, floating in a tomato soup chunky with chestnuts and beans - but simpler options, from traditional croque-monsieur to flaky, fragrant house-made sausage rolls, are just as fine. A take-home meal, such as pork and veal meatballs, is optional, but the lavishly iced cupcakes are a must.

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