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Royal Hotel

13/20

Contemporary$$

This once working-class 19th-century pub still maintains a sense of old-world charm but when you see the top floor's Elephant Bar ($10 cocktails all day Sunday) you realise just how far it's come. Downstairs the Royal Bar & Grill offers bistro-style dining where a mixed grill platter will set you back $27 - but that's a two-person platter complete with pork, beef, snags and spatchcock. For a lighter touch try the crisp polenta stack with wilted spinach or saffron tagliatelle with wild mushrooms and truffle oil. A range of $15 burgers is also top quality. Service can be spotty and just a little snooty.

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