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Royal Hotel

Good Food hat15/20

Contemporary$$

This grand dame has long occupied pride of place by Paddington's Fiveways, so it draws a mixed crowd of expats, eccentrics and students here for the sport and cocktail bar upstairs. Pull up a stool and settle in for a rugby match (union, naturally) with Turkish-inspired dips and toast, or salt-and-pepper dusted baby squid with pickled cucumber. Their club sandwich is three tiers of wonder (with fries), while the steak is juicy and perfectly seared. Add their good by-the-glass or tap selection and we'll bet this grand dame will stand here for many years to come.

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