Rubicon Restaurant

Here's a special-occasion restaurant in the best sense, where you know you're in for a sparkling, satisfying evening in the hands of professionals. The set-up is not ideal, with tables in small, slightly awkward spaces, but the feel is warm, with good tableware. Service is assured, wine is top notch and food is complex but firmly grounded. Sichuan-braised eggplant with nori-wrapped silken tofu is a highlight, texturally irresistible, and one of four dishes on a separate vegetarian list. Rabbit and porcini sage sausage with polenta, enoki and tarragon is another great entree; excellent fat snags with creamy polenta and a flavour of aniseed adding intrigue. Jewfish with stuffed diamond clams is a piece of meaty fish, pretty with bright kale underneath. Interesting homemade ices shine in both the dark chocolate pudding with drunken figs and pistachio praline ice-cream; and baked quince frangipane with honey whisky ice-cream.