Rupert on Rupert

If it wasn't already a thing, Rupert On Rupert's out and proud love of indoor plants may just represent the tipping point where plant life became mandatory in bars and restaurants. Much like the massed Edison globes on artfully looped cords and vast swathes of glossy white tiles of recent years, indoor plants – in macrame hangers, wall mounted, artfully rusting planter boxes, glazed ceramic pots – have become an increasingly familiar decor trope in Melbourne. But with Rupert On Rupert's abundant, healthy looking and impressively sized entry into the indoor plant fray, it feels like they've truly arrived.

This bar and diner opened in Collingwood's backstreets earlier this year, setting up stylish shop in a high-ceilinged warehouse space that includes a greenhouse-like "laneway" entrance that most of Rupert On Rupert's plant life calls home.

Given the concrete jungle of the outside streetscape, the leafiness makes for an excellent first impression (actual trees! In giant wheeled pots!), one that's enhanced further by the spacious, clean-lined, beer-hall-for-the-modern-age look of the main dining/drinking area with its concrete floor, lofty ceilings, communal tables, plaid upholstery, open kitchen and kindly lighting.

Add an abundance of timber (tables, chairs, panelling) and an interesting and well-priced drink and food offering and you'd have to surmise that Rupert On Rupert's understanding of the current imbibing zeitgeist goes way beyond the greenery.

One of the best things about the place is that it's not trying too hard. Yes, it has a decent number of quality beers on tap, mostly from craft brewers (Moon Dog's excellent Love Tap, Hargreaves Hill ESB) but they're not so numerous that the decision-phobic will go into meltdown. They also pour Coopers Pale, have a couple of ciders on tap and even a tap wine (at the moment an easy drinking and well-priced rosato). It's the sort of approach that makes it very easy to take it easy.

Cocktail-wise, there's interesting stuff going on too. The short, sharp list of original cocktails has a seasonal slant so, as the last vestiges of the warmer months linger, there's still a lean towards the fruity and refreshing, like the tequila, agave, lime and watermelon juice combination of the Working Watermelon or The Japples Are Here, that has Jameson, ginger syrup and fresh pressed apple juice sharing a glass. There are classics available too, including a rather good version of Negroni, the Casa Negroni, that includes the cult vermouth from Spain's Casa Mariol (Vermut) alongside the gin and Campari.

There are pretty good things to eat, too. Again, they're not ashamed to keep it real by going down the basket of fries path (albeit, spruced up with rosemary salt and smoked paprika) and again demonstrate their acute awareness of the area's demographic with meat-free, vegan (pan-fried tofu with chilli, orange, mint and coconut) and gluten-free options (opt-in gluten free pizza bases) to keep all sections of the hip, young crowd satisfied.

The pizzas are pretty good without being mind-blowing, perhaps because the bases are a little flat and missing any sign of charring. Still, there's a brave mixing of influences in terms of ingredients like snow pea tendrils, lamb, Bulgarian feta, chimichurri and coconut prawns that show this is a kitchen forging its own pizza path while still dishing up a decent margherita to the traditionalists/fuddy-duddies.

You'd probably return to Rupert On Rupert just to sit among the plants, breathing in all that super oxygenated air. But the good natured, efficient service and the focused but relaxed take on eating and drinking make all the plant life even more attractive.

THE LOWDOWN
Drink this Working Watermelon, where tequila gets pretty and refreshing.
Eat this Wood-fired pizzas, from classic (margherita) to kooky (coconut prawns, cashew pesto and coriander)
Check this The green, serene vibe from the abundant plant life.