Saap Thai

Here's a Thai template menu, with spring rolls, fishcakes, soups and deep-fried fish. But a steady stream of Thai regulars know better and come for fried rice and noodles, and darkly mysterious chilli-and-offal-laden soups, including the house special: spicy chicken feet soup. Then there's the Isaan or north-eastern Thai dishes: barbecued meats and fresh and refreshing som tam (green papaya salad), all to be eaten with little balls of sticky rice delivered in tiny woven baskets. Try som tam with barbecued pork neck, tomato, peanuts, green beans, chilli, carrot and green papaya strands. With sticky rice on the side, it's the perfect five-food-groups meal. The brisk canteen style here is great for a quick 'n' easy chilli hit.