Samphire Bites

What's a chef who trained at The Lanesborough in London, worked in France, Spain and at Melbourne's Vue de Monde doing at a casual hole-in-the-wall restaurant on Chevron Island? Who cares. Best to just say a quick thanks to the food gods and start grazing your way through James Brady's small-plate menu. A display of tins of molecular ingredients hint at what's to come - and yes, expect foams and 'textures' but they're judiciously used. A scotch egg, perfectly liquid within its meaty, crisp-crumbed coat is partnered with curry 'air'. Warm sobrasada (a spreadable Spanish sausage) on the other hand is down to earth; intensely rich and smoky, served with croutons for spreading on and soft bread for mopping. A generous plate of carpaccio comes with 'textures of artichoke', while a duck breast with roasted figs garnished with foraged wood sorrel is almost traditionally classic. Fasten your seatbelt to go back to the future for desserts such as 'hubba bubba' and 'not your everyday cheesecake'.