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Sapore

Sapore, restaurant, St Kilda, Melbourne.
Sapore, restaurant, St Kilda, Melbourne.Supplied

14/20

Italian$$$

Right on the junction of Fitzroy Street and Beaconsfield Parade, Sapore benefits from one of Melbourne's few natural wonders, the bay sunset that floods this little corner of the world with golden light. Sit back with their signature aperitivo (Aperol, blood orange, prosecco and soda), served by friendly, if occasionally absent-minded staff, and there are suddenly few better places to be. It's a fun space - quite tight but curvy-ceilinged with a blood-red feature wall. The menu is confidently Italian. beef carpaccio with garlic croutons and a caper-cornichon dressing; a stunning, if simple, salad of heirloom tomatoes, torn mozzarella and basil; duck with cabbage. Pastas are decidedly hearty. We defy you to work through gnocchi with rabbit in a truffle-butter sauce, or inch-wide pappardelle with wagyu rump ragu, and still order dessert. But it would be a pity to forgo the Italian doughnuts; four delectable deep-fried balls of dough with purees of lemon and rhubarb.

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