Sauce Bar and Grill

Messy eaters rejoice! Here is a restaurant where bibs are not only freely available, but the staff insist on customers wearing them. If they're tucking into a plate of pork or lamb ribs, that is.

Sauce Bar and Grill is located opposite the green expanse of Coogee Oval. Walking in, we are hit by a sea of white - not the decor but the bowls for the gnawed rib bones, the moist towels to wipe off sticky digits and the bibs to protect diners' clothes. It is pretty clear right away what the house speciality is here. And that you should avoid wearing pale clothing or any fabric that requires dry cleaning. A bib can only do so much.

A wander along Coogee beach at dusk, past family groups tucking in to fish and chips and picnic dinners, has us ready for a big feed. We are in luck. The menu promises hearty fare, focusing on steaks and ribs. There is also a whole chook on the menu, done Portuguese style, plus seafood and vegetarian options to round out the offering.

We decide to start light, knowing what is to come.

The prawn cocktail is pretty traditional affair. Cos lettuce, prawns, avocado and dollop of cocktail sauce. Oysters come unadorned, although we did have the option of kilpatrick. They are freshly shucked and served with a wedge of lemon.

Next, we are served fat morsels of salty, grilled haloumi threaded on wooden skewers, divided by red onion. A smudge of rocket pesto adds some extra flavour but is gone halfway through. The sauce on the prawn cocktail was a little on the skimpy side, too.

As we wait for the main courses to arrive, we survey the surrounds from our spot on the balcony. It is pretty quiet, which is surprising given the hustle and bustle of the beachfront isn't too far away. Around us, a large group of young women celebrate a birthday, a man and woman converse shyly, clearly on a date, and an older couple sit in companionable silence, sharing a plate of ribs. These are finished in the restaurant's own barbecue sauce and caramelised slightly in the cooking process. A half rack of lamb ribs is devoured at our table. The verdict? Smoky, sweet and very tender. They are also pretty sticky, so the moist towels come in handy.

A grilled steak is ordered medium rare and served just so. It and the ribs arrive with apple coleslaw and a choice of chips, mash or jacket potato. The homemade chips are thin and rustic-looking with bits of the skin kept on. We get one batch straight from the deep fryer. Hot and salty, they don't last long.

The barbecued prawn main is served with a herb salad and skordalia, essentially potato mashed with a hint of garlic and lemon. In the herb salad, we spot dill, basil, coriander, spring onions and chilli. Fried shallots add a nice textural contrast. It is an unusual combination but it is definitely packed full of flavour.

Dessert is more of a pick-me-up, courtesy of an affogato and biscotti. We are too full for anything else.

As the bibs come off, we do a quick check. Did any barbecue sauce penetrate its defences? Alas yes, there has been one casualty. Time to head home for the dishwashing detergent - the messy eater's trick for getting oily stains out of fabric.

SAUCE BAR AND GRILL

2A/29-31 Alfreda Street, Coogee

9664 7550

Dinner seven days; lunch Fri and Sun, licensed

Menu It's all about the grill.

Value Can be a bit pricey, depending on what you order. Entrees $14-$18; mains $20-$50; desserts $9.

Recommended dishes Haloumi skewers; lamb ribs.