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Scusami

Scusami Article Lead - narrow
Scusami Article Lead - narrowSupplied

13/20

Italian$$$

Above the river, spot-lit Melbourne before you, baby grand behind, it's clear why Scusami remains a special-occasion favourite. But in a city of hip, bare-tabled stars it's equally clear Scusami is old guard. Linen is starched; so are the usually attentive staff, and the chef is in the kitchen rather than on TV. The food is elegant and flavoursome, without breaking new ground. Start with warm olives and rosemary, or parmesan with house-made grissini, crostini and reduced balsamic, or soft, paper-thin DOC prosciutto interspersed with rockmelon slivers on a vincotto-dotted plate. Hefty mains include beautifully seasoned, sliced veal pan-fried with seasonal vegetables (maybe globe artichokes and asparagus). Or seafood panzanella: crouton salad with mussels and king prawns, zinging with basil and tomato-balsamic dressing. There's tiramisu, or try the rich pyramid of chocolate mousse with a raspberry hit. The tab can be up in expense-account territory, but Scusami is also a place to splurge. After all, the view's priceless.

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