Seaduction

Sea Temple has set about to creating an iconic restaurant and the framework is all there - movie set looks, stunning views, luxurious trappings and Steve Szabo running the kitchen. Szabo has a stellar reputation glossed by a decade the Palazzo Versace kitchens. At Seaduction he is backed by a polished front-of-house team who know when to fuss and when to merely monitor. The penance of a great reputation is the expectation for it to be met or surpassed. Here it missed by a sliver; an immaculately presented entree of swordfish (crowned by a garnish of fried quail egg) wanted for seasoning and suffered from a minute too long in the pan. Slow-cooked pork cheeks are sublime and paired with impossibly pliant gnocchi - but again lacked seasoning. Deconstructed cheesecake is beautifully balanced and texturally complex. Seaduction is a restaurant still in its infancy and, given time to hit its stride, should really be something special.