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Seaduction Article Lead - narrow
Seaduction Article Lead - narrowSupplied

15.5/20

Modern Australian$$

It's like watching a movie from the comfort of gold class. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame scenes of surfers' vans cruising by checking out the swell and gold-bikinied meter maids saving careless parkers from a ticket. It's all highly entertaining, but eyes down please - chef Steve Szabo's food deserves undivided attention. A posh caesar salad entree comes with a sous-vide egg, one degree to the right side of raw, perfect pierced over poached chicken, batons of fried bread and mixed in with dobs of creamy anchovy mayo. A nest of celestial gnocchi is the jewel of a wish-list dish of slow-cooked pork cheek and broad beans, saved from homeliness by some pretty plating. Rangers Valley wagyu steak is cheekily served with a butter knife, three types of mustard and a red wine jus. Desserts favour the deconstructed, but a lemon curd tart, while modernist in principle, with accompanying 'crumbs' and 'dust' is, in the end, just a very fine lemon tart.

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