Sebastian's Food and Wine

We ordered our fruit spritzes: one blood orange and blueberry, one pink grapefruit and passionfruit. The waiter leaned in conspiratorially. ''We can add vodka to those if you like,'' she winked. Nice idea, and indicative of the kind of helpful upselling that I'm sure has turned many a quick bite at Sebastian's into a sun-dappled session extending well into the afternoon.

The stripy-T-shirted staff also understand the pressures on cafe pleasures: I witnessed one waiter enable a mum to enjoy an emergency soy latte by giving her wandering toddler a watering can to tip over the herb jungle. Initiative comes with time. Two years after new owners took over this neighbourhood institution, Sebastian's is confident, easygoing and reliable.

There are tables in the narrow dining room and along the pavement adjacent to Sandringham railway line but the courtyard is the prime position. It's shady and green and accommodates prams, big groups and loud laughter. The extensive menu is along Greatest Hits lines: smashed avocado, eggs 'n' extras, calamari, a signature burger, chicken baguette and caesar salad are lined up like the Gold 104 playlist. Predictable isn't bad. Breakfast and lunch often start with ''I feel like … and the cafe's job is to fulfil, not to stretch horizons. Sebastian's presents the old faithfuls with flair using vibrant, quality produce. Slightly more surprising stuff includes cheddar and jalapeno croquettes that turn from super crisp to mega oozy in one bite. Chicken wings come with a smoky piri-piri rub, and delicious mini meatballs soak up rich tomato sugo. The Sebastian's burger is a stonking feed built around a spiced lamb patty. A pork slider is just as good, heaped with moist pulled meat, coleslaw and apple aioli. Overall, the food is easy to enjoy if not quite transporting.

Gluten-free eaters have a decent selection, especially among the dainty sweets.

The experience as a whole is excellent. Sebastian's feels content in its own skin and that makes it a happy place to visit.