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Seoul Ria

The creaky lift leaves you unprepared for the starkly lit, bawling, sprawling upstairs room. Rows of neatly arranged tables, raucous groups, darting waiters, bubbling hotpots and sizzling barbecues set the scene for a cheery chilli-and-garlic laden meal enhanced by a familiar selection of sides (kimchi, sprouts, grated radish and more). The lengthy menu offers safe seafood pancake and hotpot options, but there are less-explored Korean faves such as tofu kimchi (a tasty mess of tangy pork stirred through with ricotta-like soybean curds) and a stodgy kimchi pancake with cheese. Venture further with potato pancakes with sesame leaves; river snails with apple, chilli and garlic; or cham bossam - simmered pork served with kimchi and oysters.

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