Shanghai Night

Formerly Shanghai Memory, this perpetually busy restaurant now shares the name of its ancestor, the stalwart Shanghai Night (still at 275 Liverpool Road). Recently upsized servings - but not prices - make it great flavour-to-dollar value. Start with the dumplings. Owner Yang brought the dumpling chefs with him from the original Shanghai Night, and they work masterfully in full view at the front of the restaurant. Try plump pork pockets with coriander or chives, or lovely fish dumplings. Also order sweet-and-sour tofu slabs soaked in a thick, sugary sauce, with vegies and pineapple chunks, plus enormous deep-fried ice-cream. The wise wear stretchy pants.