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Siam 1

Siam 1, restaurant, Carnegie, Melbourne.
Siam 1, restaurant, Carnegie, Melbourne.Supplied

14/20

Thai$$

In a strip dominated by cheap-as-chips dumpling houses, Siam 1 shines quietly, eschewing fluorescence in favour of a subtle, darkened interior with a central wine bar. It's another story in the kitchen, where traditional Thai flavours light up in the hands of chef Wichit Jimmy Maneeboon. A tasting plate includes five-spice chicken wings and soft sticks of pumpkin, shaggy with shredded coconut, served with house-made sauces in three shot glasses. Crying tiger beef salad, juicy and fragrant with roasted chilli, mint and coriander, swirls and explodes on the tongue, while green curry with tiger prawns and calamari is a creamy bowl, bobbing with seafood, Thai basil and a good kick of heat. Even a simple prawn pad Thai is set to the perfect tamarind speed. Desserts deliver the unexpected - try rhubarb 'jelly' beneath a bruleed palm sugar and cinnamon caramel. Service can be a little halting. a microscopic complaint with food this good.

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