Sky Mountain

A full house is common at this low-key handmade noodle joint. When they introduced a new menu late last year, some regulars panicked. Did they still do the awesome lamb backbone hotpot? What about the 'family salad', a fresh, textural delight with tahini and chilli sauce, and the springy, super-long noodles? Thankfully, it's 'Yes' all round, and there are new finds, too: the amusingly named 'Explosion Chinese Black Fungus' is actually wood ear fungus, subtly flavoured with spring onion and garlic. 'Boiled fish in spicy sauce' undersells itself: the huge bowl is packed with melting white-fish pieces and the broth has a mild smoky chilli flavour. The decor's had a mini spruce-up, too, but remains modest.