Small Victories

WHERE AND WHAT

Unassuming persona by day, superhero by night - the modern cafe follows the Clark Kent mould of satisfying its brunch-loving customers but busting out some serious moves come nightfall. The combo of chef Alric Hansen (ex-Rumi, Bar Lourinha, the Crimean) and Ben Farrant at front-of-house are enjoying victories small and large at their hard-working Carlton North digs.

WHERE TO SIT

You might remember this spot as the former Rathdowne Street Food Store, one of the crucibles of the modern ''serious'' cafe movement that took us out of the scrambled-eggs-on-white-toast ghetto. A makeover has been directed by someone with style smarts - nothing is overworked in the pursuit of a classic European vibe. The marble bar is worthy of propping for an hour or two, and there's a raised rear dining room as well. Rathdowne ''Village'', as the locals seem duty-bound to call it, is indeed pleasant: grab some kerb-side seating to fully soak up its village qualities.

WHEN TO GO

Tuesday, 8am-4pm; Wednesday-Saturday, 8am-10.30pm; Sunday, 9am-5pm.

DRINK

They pull a fine caffe latte, with beans by Brunswick's Wide Open Road; there's an indie beer and cider list and a neat wine list that does the Oz-New Zealand thing with a minimum of fuss; there are four whites and four reds (including rose´) by the glass.

EAT

Hansen's food is always good to look at, whether it's the baked eggs at brekkie or the Vietnamese-style roast chicken sandwich with 'slaw and nam jim at lunch, but at night the kitchen moves into fourth gear with food that betrays his restaurant past in the best possible way. Some of it is glorified drinking food of the style that's popping up on menus from here to Broome: Korean-style chicken, the segments of bird brined and poached before hitting the fryer; the same method is used with the lamb ribs, which are scattered in nigella and sesame seeds and fancied up with a black slick of tahini and a curious quince aioli that works well against the fat of the lamb. Larger plates are dishes that wouldn't be out of place in a modern restaurant: chargrilled quail breast, the thigh marinated in cherry liqueur, with a pistachio crisp and torn pieces of buckwheat brioche, or pan-fried Dory with crunchy-sweet celery, spring onion and plump raisins.

WHO'S THERE

Young women discussing their marathon training, hand-holdy couples and Rathdowne villagers.

WHY BOTHER?

To experience the trickle-down effect of ''fine dining''.

 ■ Twitter: @LarissaDubecki