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Smith Street Alimentari

Contemporary$$

Nothing sums up the changing face of this once-grungy strip better than this effortlessly elegant alimentari. These days, the denizens of Smith Street are chasing a different fix: posh groceries such as cryovaced bags of confit duck, ready-to-serve pancetta and pea risotto all made in the open kitchen; and crinkly packets of amaretti and Spanish paprika artfully arranged on the tall shelves. Before filling a shopping basket, pull up a stool at the marble bench for a herb-strewn grain salad, crusty panini stuffed with roast pork and apple sauce, or pear and rhubarb frangipane tart. Also in Fitzroy.

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