Sonder

Behind the busy thoroughfare of Oxford Street in Paddington, there's a new cafe to call your second home. The first thing you'll notice are the kaleidoscopic floor-to-ceiling murals, painted by artist Shannon Crees. From there, it's a game of discovering the multiple nooks of the corner terrace, leading to a sun-dappled courtyard at the back. Sonder is a place for pause.

The location suits it well. For more than three decades, the address belonged to the popular Vamps Bistro. After seeing the property's For Lease sign, cafe manager Kathi Obermeier fell in love with the Glenmore Road terrace and saw her chance to begin something of her own.

She turned it into an all-in-one cafe and restaurant, serving breakfast until the sun goes down and then after all that, dinner too, when most other cafes would be calling it a day.

For those unfamiliar, "Sonder", a term invented by artist John Koenig, means "the realisation that each random passerby is living a life as vivid and complex as your own".

"Every now and again you stop and think, hold on, I wonder what that person's been going through today, or what they've been doing. [Sonder] makes sense as a meeting place for people coming and going," Obermeier says.

Obermeier is right. Time isn't an issue here – there's no hurried feeling to usher the next round of diners in; the atmosphere is decidedly mellow. A softly tinkling playlist – mostly of the mid-2000s indie-folk variety – adds to the laid-back vibe.

The menu is concise but eclectic enough to spruik interest for the more seasoned brunch crowd. Head chef Ralph Campbell has designed a suite of dishes that focuses on "good ingredients done well". No one whips out their phone to Google the latest iteration of strange garnishes; everything offered sparks a degree of comforting familiarity.

My dining companion and I arrive on the cusp of the weekend lunch rush hour. A necessary round of coffees begin our meal, but not before the waiter returns apologetically (sorry; no soy, but there is almond milk). Nevertheless, the Double Roasters latte that's finally delivered is appeasing – strong and creamy, albeit slightly heavy on the foam side.

We decide on a mixed berry smoothie too, with yoghurt and banana. It arrives, but only after a delayed reminder, as we're tucking into our meal. We blow off the hiccup, reasoning that the cafe is still finding its feet. The smoothie is welcomed as a refreshing antidote to the summer heat, thankfully erring on the less sweet side of the spectrum.

Disappointingly, the waiter informs us the cafe has run out of the roast mushroom with grilled halloumi and lemon. We decide instead to try Sonder's rendition of the classic avocado on toast, the litmus test of a good cafe.

Our four dishes, including dessert, arrive all at once, and it's an impressive spread. We take a bite of the smashed avocado and both nod in approval. Almost whipped in texture, the avocado is finished generously with fresh rocket and onion, and is perfectly balanced with zesty citrus and the lovely crunch of ciabatta.

The plate of king prawns, delectably imbued with rosemary and a smattering of barbecue corn, is also exceptionally more-ish. A sauce of green chilli and coriander provides refreshing relief. The prawns' chargrilled aroma begs for the plate to be licked clean.

An Israeli-inspired dish on the menu – the eggplant and coddled egg sabih – is a vegetarian's delight.  Bundles of explosively sweet cherry tomatoes, roasted eggplant, cucumber, yoghurt and mint come perched on a tortilla for DIY rolling. The cascading yolk of the poached egg adds richness.  

Savouries aside, we plunge ahead to dessert. It's uncomplicated, as are most good things, and solidifies Sonder's simplistic, produce-first approach to food. Slices of vanilla-poached mango and fresh fig are topped with a dollop of yogurt and fig crisps. We polish it off.

By now, we're the only diners left in the courtyard. A sense of calm has descended and it takes more than an effort to not abandon our plans and lounge away the day here instead. But definitely another afternoon.

THE PICKS

Grilled rosemary king prawns, smashed avocado, vanilla poached mango and fig.

THE COFFEE

Double Roasters.

THE LOOK

Cosy remodelled terrace with spacious courtyard seating.

THE SERVICE

Relaxed, personable but sometimes forgetful.