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Spicy Fish

Chinese$$

This bright, bustling diner packs ’em in and gets ’em out fast. The army of orange-shirted staff will show you through a sprawling, Sichuan-meets-Shanghai menu of glossy photographs. Be warned: chilli levels are high. The eponymous spicy fish is best shared with a group – the formidable basin of dark oil is packed with fillets of basa, spring onions, chillies and killer peppercorns. Safer bets include salty deep-fried green beans with minced pork, steamed xiao long bao or mild chilli wontons, and traditional ‘ants climbing trees’: thin rice noodles that leave the mouth pleasantly numb. Servings are generous.

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