Spoonful

In homewares heartland, this humming room with massive Chinese lanterns and mini terracotta potplants on communal tables is a locals' hangout. Non-locals will still feel at home, with interesting breakfasts (say a bacon and egg salad with baby spinach) and elegant lunches (duck and pistachio terrine and a cheeky pinot). Rare-grilled beef skewers sprinkled with crushed peanuts and fried shallots with a green mango salad in a baguette is a signature feast, so too the chicken liver salad with vincotto. From the glass dessert cabinet try a wedge of cinnamony Sicilian apple cake with a splodge of cream. Little sister Teaspoon (next door) does a brisk trade in fancy rolls and sweets.