Spoonful

Dozens of cookbooks crowd shelves by the open kitchen at the rear of this terraced Victorian shopfront. Some are glossy, others thoroughly thumbed, evidence of owner Melly Beilby's years of experience and eye for the new. Seasonal flowers, wicker chairs and Chinese lanterns have a lived-in feel as backdrop for two communal tables and several smaller ones buzzing with lunching friends, all welcomed by friendly if not always watchful staff. Sauteed chicken liver salad spiked with vincotto is a well-loved perennial on the constantly changing menu. You might also find smoked trout salad, a generous pile with shaved fennel, beetroot and pea shoots. Indian-spiced lamb burger may be a little lean, needing its accompanying kasoundi and raita for moisture. Light and lovely spinach and ricotta gnocchi might come studded with cherry tomatoes and a sprinkle of lemon zest. Seasonal desserts from the cabinet, such as a fig and frangipane tart, show a light hand with pastry.