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St Edmonds

Modern Australian$$

A grown-up menu helps to distinguish this side-lane cafe with its striking graffiti-sprayed facade from the rash of venues opening weekly across suburban Melbourne. (That, and the mean cocktail list.) Nothing is pedestrian: an omelette is ‘souffled’ and studded with Serrano ham, lashings of pomegranate molasses top plump ricotta and honey pancakes with fresh pistachios, and the signature beef burger cosies up to house pickles and piquant tomato relish. Coffee (including cold drip) is a focus; so, too, a relaxed attitude designed to take the pomp out of daytime dining in the garage-chic interior.

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