St Isidore

The menu unequivocally declares its intent. 'We use and support happy farmers, happy free-ranging animals & produce grown with a little bit o' love'. Not that you need reminding, as you walk through flower-filled gardens into the simply furnished, quirkily detailed dining room, past tables strewn with produce. Chef Alex Delly runs a serenely creative (occasionally slow) kitchen, aided by courteous, friendly waiters. An entree of garden tomatoes is a picture of summer, with a goat's curd-filled zucchini flower and cubes of barely pickled watermelon; while slow-cooked Junee lamb shoulder is almost spoonably soft, served with quinoa tabbouleh enlivened by shards of eggplant and haloumi. Crisp-skinned Tasmanian salmon is paired with ribbons of cucumber, wood ear mushrooms and turnip, a hint of miso adding extra umami to the mix. And while some dishes - sweet and savoury - could use a little more intensity, a satiny chocolate delice with fig and honey ice-cream packs a heady punch.