Station Street Trading Co

Not every Sunday on Station Street is sunny. But does this modest boulevard have more than its share of shine? Not every dog tied to the antique verandah is big-eyed and smiley, fluffy and feather-tailed. But so many of them seem to be. Not all of the children running around the strip of park opposite the cafe kick crunchy leaves as though they're in a Country Road catalogue and refrain from complaint when mum or dad say "no" to another hot chocolate then order a third latte for themselves. But those kids do.

In short, not every brunch here will be ridiculously idyllic, but if there's ever a place to seek autumnal arcadia, this will do.

Station Street opened last year in the hands of some of the same crew who gave Armadale its super Coin Laundry Cafe. There are similarities: both are singular businesses in sweet residential pockets close to public transport stops (there a train, here the No.109 light rail). Both are small and bright with petite open kitchens. Both have tight, fresh menus, all-day breakfast and dashing lunch specials written on a wall-hanging roll of paper. Both do great coffee and the simple things well: water arrives and is usually topped up, sugar is raw, salt is flaked and, crucially, eggs spill yolkily when hacked into with hung-over urgency.

The signature stack is one of Melbourne's neatest breakfast catastrophes. One slice of lovely Woodfrog sourdough is topped with a tidy, tightly packed trio: mashed avocado, a bright bundle of spinach and tart beetroot relish. Over that is the bacon, stabbed onto skewers in concertina lengths and expertly grilled, juicy oyster mushrooms, and finally, poached egg orbs glistening with flaked salt. It's classy.

Every modern cafe needs its ancient grains but I'm not sure Station Street's puffed quinoa "tabbouleh" with strawberry labneh was the breakfast to champion them.

Luckily the dish has been given the boot in favour of cool-weather winners, such as rice pudding and porridge. I also think the menu could do with a pancake or fritter option, especially given that Coin Laundry built a following around its crisp corn fritters.

Other than that, love it. The service is efficient, friendly and can-do, the pavement tables are a lovely outdoor lounge for dogs and humans (blankets available), and the neighbourly atmosphere may make you love Melbourne even more.

Rating

3.5 out 5 stars