Stokehouse

The expression 'you can't eat the view' is a generally accepted truth - unless you're at salty, white-framed, airy Stokehouse, with its vista of white-topped breakers or the big blue bath that is Melbourne's bay on a warm day. The tang of the air and the light flooding through this room and across white cloths infects diners with an easy, noisy seaside vibe, sharpening appetites for everything from fish and chips to passionfruit souffle. This is an iconic celebration place. Breezy, brisk waitstaff are everywhere, all the time, sometimes pouring and serving at a breathtaking pace. But you won't want to hurry as you dive into the deep deliciousness of braised rabbit pappardelle, or spanner crab and clam risotto with peas and almonds in which every flavour sparkles. Fish - baked whole with lemon verbena cream, perhaps, or john dory, scallops and mussels on a sweetcorn reduction - is unsurprisingly reliable so close to the briny source. And the view tastes just great.