Stokehouse City

When fire destroyed St Kilda’s iconic Stokehouse, the resources of owner Frank van Haandel proved its salvation: his city-suit favourite Comme was evicted from its equally historic Alfred Place digs for the rebuild’s duration. The mood is more fin de siècle glamour than cool beachshack, although deft touches by designer Pascale Gomes-McNabb transport seaside élan to the corporate den, from fishing nets draped around the glass chandeliers to the shabby-chic treatment of the wooden floors. Staff remain serenely competent, and the menu retains its splash-out occasion status. Big flavours dominate, from slow-cooked pork with soft pillows of ricotta gnocchi, pine mushrooms and a gutsy bacon jus, to translucent strips of lardo draped over pan-fried Murray cod fillet with cuttlefish, cavolo nero and black olives. Cobia sashimi dials the intensity down to a pleasant hum with mussel vinaigrette and salmon roe, while at dessert, the signature bombe Alaska turns up like an old friend. Situation normal… sort of. 

And … Stokehouse’s downstairs cafe has also made the journey; find it on the ground level.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe: Glamourpuss.
Best bit: Stokehouse lives.
Worst bit: We miss the ocean views.