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Subo

Subo belongs on the honour roll for Newcastle and beyond.
Subo belongs on the honour roll for Newcastle and beyond.Supplied

Good Food hatGood Food hat16/20

Contemporary$$$

Even the entrance is a marvel. Subo’s door is a 3D patchwork of timber offcuts - like an eccentric wonder from a child’s playtime session. Inside, lighting runs like a giant spider from the ceiling and animal sculptures spring from the walls. This compact restaurant also flips expectations with the outsized imagination of Beau Vincent’s menu. Winging from dish to dish via his five-course flight path is a heady trip: take-off and landing are unforgettable. Fraser Island spanner crab ‘wrapped’ in dehydrated and blanched cabbage is like an inventive sang choy bao; coffee ‘cake’ is a blockbuster dessert, a cappuccino spill brilliantly re-imagined as magic on a plate. Chawanmushi with miso-konbu corn and popcorn powder prove vegetarian options are first-rate, too. Matching the chef’s excellence is wife Suzie Vincent’s front-of-house warmth and professionalism - reasons why Subo belongs on the honour roll for Newcastle and beyond.

And … Follow the kitchen’s antics via Instagram and Twitter.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe
Tiny but knocking it out of the ballpark.
Best bit Inventive food flair, incredibly warm service.
Worst bit When it’s over.

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