Sugaroom

Sugaroom is a late addition to the shared-plate pack, but a revamped menu is giving early movers a run for their money. In this gritty, beautiful, industrial waterfront setting, it's difficult to ignore the good selection of seafood. From the new 'petit plat' section, grilled prawns, split lengthways, reel diners in. Beef cheek croustillant is crisp pastry cigars stuffed with shreds of slow-cooked beef that is subtle in flavour but big on pull-apart softness. However, an accompanying salsa verde was too oily and horseradish cream underwhelmed. More substantial dishes can be ordered from the grill or mains section of the menu. The kitchen nails crisp-skinned barramundi. the skin cooked to blistered perfection with fork-soft flesh. Accompanying Thai basil, water chestnut, black bean and chilli sauce packs punch but lacked balance. Linguine nets a generous supply of blue swimmer crab and has a pleasant chilli-garlic kick. If friendly staff, wine-bar buzz and dependable dishes are what you're after, then Sugaroom hits the sweet spot.