Sukjai

Cute, colourful and a touch quirky, this casual canteen doesn’t command the cult following of neighbours Chat or Home Thai, but it still manages to hold its own in bustling Thaitown. Crowd-pleasers like pad Thai and barbecued pork are as good here as anywhere, but it’s the chef’s suggestions where the kitchen really shines. Yes ped (crisp-skinned duck seasoned with tamarind and plum sauce, served with Chinese broccoli) is tender and tangy without being too sweet, while the pla nueng ma noo (steamed whole barramundi with fresh lemon and chilli) hits just the right balance of spicy, sour and salty.