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Sumalee

Thai$$

While this little den is as noisy as a Thai street market, its cheery disposition and punchy dishes are worth the thrum. Start with zingy Thai-style arancini, stuffed with pork mince, ginger and kaffir lime; rich peanutty chicken satay; or maybe sweetly sticky shallow-fried tofu. The main event might mean fall-off-the-bone massaman lamb shank, crisp caramel pork belly, or chilli-laden ‘Beef on Fire’ - keep some zesty green papaya salad at hand to cool things down. If brunch is your thing, red spicy eggs transcend geographic boundaries, the poached eggs nestling atop chorizo, wilted spinach and sourdough, and blanketed with chilli hollandaise.

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