Sushi Bar Aka Tombo

If this hushed little sushi bar was any more low-key it would sing bass at the opera. Pale green walls, plinky muzak, a pair of tables for two and a row of white chairs along the bar form a perfectly plain palette for chef Akira Kageyama to display his artistry. There is theatre in the sight of him turning a whole daikon radish into a metre-long parchment before shredding it, then dissecting fresh fish into immaculately sculpted sushi and sashimi to be presented moments later on a gorgeous ceramic plate. Japanese standards are given enough flair to put them several cuts above most similar restaurants, such as beautifully smoky eggplant, deep fried and marinated in soy, in umami dashi broth, or a delicate wakame salad with seaweed, crisp green beans and wafers of fiery red radish doused in a light vinegar and topped with sesame seeds. The specials list contains highlights, too, perhaps a richly flavoured grilled teriyaki kingfish steak.