Syracuse

There's no other room in Melbourne like Syracuse. The Victorian bank's high ceilings, rich timbering and whispery archways speak of institutional riches in a way that Perspex security screens and $2 ATM surcharges never will. If you want to listen without straining, to lean together lovingly, to be flatteringly lit, this is your room. If you ever stole a mink, this is the restaurant to shrug it off.

The restaurant is a living room for local workers. They tumble in half asleep for eggs en cocotte. They come back at lunchtime for deal making over gnocchi with rabbit and peas. After work, they unwind with wine and pick from a menu that starts snacky and ends substantial. I like the food. Chef Michael Harrison's take on modern cooking was last enjoyed at Ice when the Prahran cafe made a short-lived stab at serious gastronomy. He's been here six months and the menu mixes Syracuse standards (saganaki, calamari, meatballs in napoli) with Harrison's more finessed dishes. The seared tuna is a great example of the latter. Handsome bite-size fish cubes are cooked on one side, then scattered with pickled baby cucumbers flavoured with ginger and Szechuan pepper. The dish is tart and rich, hot and cold, a playful, pretty winner. For luscious winter sustenance plump for beef short ribs, marinated in orange and coriander seeds, served with cider-spiked onions. Not everything is as enjoyable: the Brussels sprouts tasted like the cook was bored.

Though Syracuse is still immensely appealing there are signs of slackness after nearly 15 years. Some antiques are looking shabby rather than elegantly aged. The atmosphere isn't helped by an unfortunate view of groceries above the servery. I understand that kitchen staff may need cereal refuels but I don't need to see evidence. As in many Melbourne restaurants, cracking key service personnel are let down by inexpert staff.

The wine list is alluring as ever, but "I've got a really nice shiraz" isn't wine service. And bringing a glass of said anonymous shiraz to the table, bottle nowhere in sight, isn't good enough in a restaurant that vaunts its wine experience. Also, we didn't get any bread, our plates weren't cleared and no one said goodbye, even though it took me ages to get into my mink. I still had a pleasant evening, but I wasn't able to lose myself in the experience and, surely, that's what Syracuse should be all about.

Tips and pans to theserve@theage.com.au

Also try
Jorg, 203 St Georges Road, North Fitzroy, 9482 3002. Tues-Sun, lunch & dinner.

Just opened and with a focus on informal European dining, Jorg has a small mid-range wine list with barely a drop over $70. Share the charcuterie plate, stuffed peppers and the goulash hotpot with cornbread for dipping.

Carlisle Wine Bar, 137 Carlisle Street, Balaclava, 9531 3222. Daily, dinner; Sat & Sun, lunch.

Enjoy the handmade pasta, the sounds from the turntable, the happy buzz fuelled by local and Euro wines and Italian dishes such as the braised Roman lamb shoulder with potatoes, caperberries and rosemary.

The Bend Wine Bar, 124 Douglas Parade, Williamstown, 9397 0666. Thurs-Sun, lunch; Tues-Sat, dinner.

With a cosy 30 seats and an off-waterfront location, this two-year-old wine bar comes into its own in winter. Come for jazz and blues on Sunday arvos, mostly Victorian wines and game meats: there's more crocodile, kangaroo and goat here than is normally seen in Willy.