Syracuse

Judiciously positioned within the city's business and hotel districts, venerable Syracuse continues to attract a discerning clientele, thanks in no small part to its fabulous vaulted dining room, imposing wine list, deferential service and faintly superior air. If the menu's transition to shared plates is a sign of the times, dishes retain an ornate presentation, especially morsels of red emperor ceviche swirled with kimchi in a glass tumbler, topped with caviar and baby cucumbers. Snout-to-tail fans can try the 'pig's head', where recovered meat is compressed into blocks, tossed in cornmeal and deep-fried, with sour cherries for welcome acidic contrast. Mains are straightforward - think wagyu rump with smoked bone marrow - so you might skip to a playful dessert such as a 'mint slice' of mousse, biscuit and chocolate. Today Syracuse feels more 'light dinner with a glass of something gorgeous' than traditional fine diner but it remains a valuable part of the city food scene.