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Takumi

13.5/20

Japanese$$

In true Japanese style, quality and simplicity are king at Takumi. The dining room's amber tones, low lighting and gracious staff add plenty of quiet, welcoming charm, while a flight of sake or shochu will work to maintain the mood. Starters might include beautifully seasoned, rare wagyu 'mince' topped with raw egg yolk (a riff on steak tartare) or deliciously sweet-savoury grilled black cod with an earthy miso glaze. Yakiniku (DIY smokeless Japanese charcoal grill) is the main game. Grill dishes arrive raw and entirely unadorned - without the support of fancy plating - so the produce really needs to sing. Premium wagyu cuts don't disappoint, and work best when grilled at a leisurely pace and paired with a spread of side dishes, a dry, warm sake and a worthy companion. It can be easy to lose yourself in the mellow fireside glow but suitably restrained desserts such as toasty goma (black sesame) pudding provide a deliciously fitting bookend to the experience.

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