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Tea House on Burke

Tea House on Burke, restaurant, Camberwell, Melbourne.
Tea House on Burke, restaurant, Camberwell, Melbourne.Gary Medlicott

13.5/20

Chinese$$

Walking into Tea House on Burke is like wearing your favourite jumper. It's warm and familiar and you know exactly what to expect even after a decade of service. Sure, the design is no longer so contemporary, but when has it ever let you down? Service is polite, assured and knowledgeable, and that's welcome considering the breadth of options on the mainly Cantonese menu. Chicken and sweetcorn soup is a confidently executed nostalgia trip, as is a lettuce cup cradling a spirited chicken sang choy bao mix. Grandmother's beancurd rarely fails, the silky tofu and ground pork mingling with soy and black-bean to great effect. Noodles can occasionally miss the mark and dumplings may need dipping sauce for added punch, but dishes such as tender eye fillet doused in sticky Sichuan sauce alleviate any misgivings. Desserts traipse the typical Australian-Chinese line with banana fritters and deep-fried ice-cream - but they're done well.

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