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Tea Rooms of Yarck

Good Food hat15/20

Italian$$$

The name suggests scones but the offering is purely Italian at this pleasantly higgledy-piggledy country cottage. The food is lovely but a meal here is more about letting go and relaxing into easy, unpretentious hospitality - a simple task if you've booked a night at the Tea Room's church lodgings just across the road. The 'feed me' option is a gentle meander through the best morsels. The procession will include homely classics such as layered eggplant parmigiana with intense tomato ragu, gently herby ossobuco, and risotto bolstered with porcini mushrooms and truffle paste. Such dishes are full of heart. Other offerings are livelier and show more flair. There might be soft-shelled crab, crisp-fried and salty-sweet within, sparked up with a jaunty sorrel and orange salad, or grilled quail with figs and a nicely judged red wine sauce. Desserts such as polenta cake and almond milk panna cotta are as sweet and beguiling as the whole experience.

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