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Teller

Good Food hat15/20

Contemporary$$$

Teller Collective is a hive of industry in Shepparton. One building houses refined Teller upstairs, with sister establishments Collective, Fryers Street Food Store and the Vault beneath. Teller draws from across the globe to create an ever-changing eight-course set menu that is a culinary and visual delight. It might begin with a giant prawn in soft-shell taco with fennel, then move on to gazpacho with mango, wasabi and basil sugar, presented in a martini glass. Salmon in aspic gel looks brilliant with its macadamia-parmesan crumble and pork trotter croquette. Pork belly might be a more predictable menu item, but would you expect it with kimchi and cassava? It works beautifully. Tender smoked duck, cous cous, braised cabbage and star anise glaze segues smoothly to an eau de vie pear junket palate cleanser and layered 'chocolate mess'. The transition to a new chef has been seamless, and for Shepparton's star performer, that's telling.

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