Ten Japanese

In a world where there's a high-speed sushi bar on every city corner, it's a rare treat to find somewhere as Zen as Ten. Or as indulgent. From handbag hooks to hot towels, it's a luxe experience from start to finish. Sit at padded ladder-back chairs at the atmospherically lit teriyaki table and surrender to the siren song of the degustation menu. Buttery soft Kurobuta pork, simmered in white miso, is served with flakes of kimchi 'bark' and crisp shavings of crackling. Black cod, white, flaky and umami-rich, has been marinated for three days in saikyo-yaki miso, and comes on a sweet pumpkin puree. Chef crisps the skin of slow-cooked duck on the teppanyaki table before adding a smear of silky pureed tofu, red wine jus and dobs of fresh gelled wasabi. Pick of the desserts is a peppered cheesecake with a blue cheese foam, fig, goat's cheese panna cotta and sesame-coated deep-fried bocconcini - a perfect yin-yang of sweet and savoury.