14/20
Ten delivers impeccable formal Japanese dining, from hot towels on arrival, highly personalised, attentive service to a small parting gift. Within the opulent interior are distinct areas for teppanyaki, sushi and private dining, each offering a range of elaborate set menus in addition to a la carte. Regardless of your choice, you'll be treated to a feast of high-quality ingredients, prepared with great precision, arranged artfully on the plate. Some dishes are a simple celebration of ingredients, such as assorted sauteed Asian mushrooms; different textures and flavours of mushrooms need nothing more than their glossy sheen of butter and soy. Others are an elaborate labour of love. The plump fillet of black cod is marinated in saikyo miso for three days - the sweet, moist flesh needs no knife. Bitter matcha green tea powder is ceremoniously mixed into a paste at the table and poured over mascarpone ice-cream, creating a beautifully balanced and vibrant bittersweet dessert.
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