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Ten Minutes by Tractor

Good Food hatGood Food hat16/20

Contemporary$$$

Ten Minutes by Tractor is the belle of the peninsula ball thanks to a beguiling combination of slick service, a benchmark wine list, and a smart dining room of polished timber and starched linen. But veteran chef Stuart Bell's food is the main reason flash European cars jostle for space in the carpark. Modern and nuanced, seasonal and regional, it's food that grabs attention away from the glorious vineyard views. Crisp-skinned smoked quail and several incarnations of pumpkin have a modulated Asian influence of black sticky rice; just-seared tuna on a green slick of spring onion yoghurt comes with an ingenious dill pickle crisp; perfect French technique applied to rare-seared wallaby fillet with a fruity quince puree elevates indigenous ingredients to new heights. A multi-textured chocolate and rhubarb ganache with boozy Cointreau ice-cream makes a fine finale, a fitting tribute to the imagination and finesse that nudges this winery restaurant ahead of the pack.

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