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Terminus at Flinders Hotel

Good Food hat15/20

French$$$

Terminus is a sedate, refined restaurant tucked away from the family-friendly rowdiness of the beach town's only pub. A study in stone and wood, with plush upholstery and linen-clad tables, its subtle glamour is matched by pitch-perfect service and the boundary-pushing food of chef Pierre Khodja, who deftly mixes classical know-how with bold North African flavours. There's plenty going on. white onion and ginger sauce unifies an entree of roasted quail stuffed with chicken and foie gras mousse and a flaky pocket of crab bisteeya. Pork belly and scallops are bedded in a parsnip puree alongside black pudding wrapped in a potato pancake. Mains include golden snapper fillet in ginger sabayon, with samphire and mussels gracing the top, and full-flavoured, slow-cooked wagyu brisket with prune and apricot. To finish, Turkish delight souffle, like Terminus itself, has the looks as well as the goods.

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