Thai Face

Meals at this high-ceilinged, amber-hued restaurant are punctuated by the clang of woks and bursts of flame from the kitchen. Tender fishcakes pack a good hit of red curry; som tum salad is a meal in itself, combining tender marinated pork with a fishy, peanutty sauce, tresses of green papaya, fried shallot, sticky rice and salad leaves; and design-your-own curry, noodle and stir-fry options cover all bases. Massaman curry comes with a cone of flaky roti, but needed more heat, less sweet and longer cooking to live up to its divine aroma. Service is efficient, but order with restraint; portions are whopping. Also in Cronulla.