Thanon Khao San

They’ve squeezed a bit of Thai authenticity into this long and narrow space on Pitt Street, complete with tuk tuk out front. There’s bare brick walls and wooden furniture with boxy, rattan individuality. But the real appeal is the spicy, fresh, crunchy, sour and sweet balance of Thai flavours. There’s whole deep-fried fish in a spicy red curry coconut sauce, zingy papaya salad with raw pickled crabs, and a whole garden-worth of Thai herbs in a pork-ball salad. Some unusual items feature, and they’re usually worth the courage. Steamed livers, and fermented pork salad are herbaceous, aromatic and satisfying.