The Artisan

The small open kitchen at the end of this long, sleek restaurant looks the picture of cool as chefs David Black and Sam McGeechan attend to each plate as if it were a work of art. In a harmonious marriage that our nation's leaders can only aspire to, flavours and textures come together in an entree of quail leg confit, smoked quail breast, crumbed quail egg and a tiny disc of sweet potato fondant. Smoked quail consomme is poured over as the dish is served. Bliss, pure and simple. Rack of lamb, beautifully done, comes with a gremolata crust, roasted jerusalem artichoke and colourful carrot puree. The wagon wheel dessert, with its layers of biscuit, marshmallow, raspberry jam and peanut praline, is pure nostalgia, and the flourish of dark chocolate ganache dribbled on top is pure theatre. The Artisan is about the 'master craft' of food and wine - from technique through to wine pairing. Mission accomplished.