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The Baths Middle Brighton

13/20

Modern Australian$$

Stressed? Need a holiday? Then go to the Baths and rest your eyes on the uninterrupted, hypnotic bay view. This elegant, elevated dining room gives everything to the view, using only gentle beige tones and sea-blue water glasses to accent it. The compact, protein-focused menu seems to take its cue from this natural simplicity. A generous fillet of king salmon will be crisp on top, tender within, perhaps served with pickled zucchini, underscored with a lightly battered stuffed zucchini flower. Twice-cooked pork belly, crisp and flaky on top like a meaty millefeuille, might be paired with a burnt carrot puree. Desserts get a touch wilder - white peach panna cotta comes with Bellini (prosecco and peach) foam, and a 'licorice bullet with home-made hundreds and thousands' appears as a lunar landscape of chocolate brownie rubble around mounds of licorice ice-cream. Service is considered and understated. Must be the view.

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