The Bellevue

Damien Pignolet may have left Woollahra's Bistro Moncur, but he hasn't gone far. He's now shaping menus 500 metres away, at this smart heritage pub with its airy, allwhite, backroom restaurant and atmospheric bars. Instead of a shock-and-awe overhaul, Pignolet is elegantly adding his touch to longtime Bellevue favourites such as an entree of lightly smoked duck strips interlaced with the creamy must of bleu d'Auvergne, a subtle king mushroom carpaccio and tangy raspberry vinaigrette. No wonder it's a keeper. The menu taps into pub staples including a good black angus scotch fillet with decent chips. There are French notes too, in a hazelnut-crusted souffle - its heavyweight flavour drawn from pumpkin, roquefort and a creamy parmesan sauce. A mushroom, avocado and toasted walnut salad, meanwhile, is all lightness and simplicity. The Bellevue may not yet have Bistro Moncur's flair, but it's a good local. And its Eton mess is a lovely wreck of yoghurt ripples and raspberry sorbet.