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The Birkenhead Hotel

Contemporary$$

‘It’s all good,’ says chef Sava Jovanovic when asked for recommendations over his kitchen counter. Then he goes on to suggest the lamb ragu or the pan-seared salmon fillet with parsnip puree, crispy speck, asparagus and crushed peas. The salmon skin and speck are wonderfully crisp, and the salmon flesh is moist. He’snailed it. Desserts (like everything else) are all made in-house, and like the bar snacks, starters, salads, burgers and mains, they are truly very good. Beautifully crimped dumplings are a huge hit, as are steamed green beans with toasted almonds and balsamic-crusted ribs. Tiramisu is the pick: a big, generous portion with a good dose of coffee-soaked cake in the layers.

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